Mr Teddy Bear wrote: ↑Thu Jun 18, 2026 8:06 am Thanks for the pictures and update John! Have you done any research on 3 Door numbers by any chance? Tom Pinney's website holds the data, but he's not around at present.

Don't think would help much for this car only number is some sort of build code in the driver's foot well

Few pics from first trackday in 3 years! Wasnt the best day rained until 3pm and was using new Hankook RS4 semi slicks so there was no front end grip what so ever due to standing water. Also had a fairly close call heading backwards towards the pit stright wall at 60mph due to a spin after running w...

Yes the R8, R3 AMand R25 all use the same front end the B&G kits is designed for AVO and GAZ coil overs tho so you will need to check they will fit

I run brown and gammon's adjustable top mounts, obviously you need coilovers and if you want to run 4° of negative camber such as the cup cars you need to cut out a small amount of the strut

As an owner of a garage I can't remember the last time I was supplied any suspension component with a castle nut

Yes still have it all tho it's not been touched for close to 3 years I'd say. Funny enough I got a message about 2 weeks ago saying the bushes have grown over half of it so I do need to go dig it out at some point while off work over the Christmas break

Definitely use the uprated oil rail but I've used it will standard bolts and torque settings with no problems. A lot of suppliers say they are the 10.9 grade bolts are to be honest over than the set I got from the MG dealer NONE others have ever had 10.9 stamped onto the head

Set the liners 4 thou above engine block, fit a grey PRT thermostat and use the SAIC 6 layer HG kit and you'll never need to worry about the HG again.

Just take the whole arm off and put it in the press by the time you've missed about it's quicker that way

There basically different cars Hardly anything is the same even the engine blocks are different