Rear door card fabric

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aopop
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Joined: Fri Jan 31, 2020 3:00 pm

Rear door card fabric

Post by aopop »

My r8 1990 416 rear door fabric has come lose just checking how to take off without removing door card also has rear window switch not how it comes off, hoping to reglue fabric. Thanks
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Johnny 216GSi
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Re: Rear door card fabric

Post by Johnny 216GSi »

aopop wrote: Tue Nov 24, 2020 3:27 pm My r8 1990 416 rear door fabric has come lose just checking how to take off without removing door card also has rear window switch not how it comes off, hoping to reglue fabric. Thanks
No way to fix the fabric other than take the door card off. Then you'll find about 10 white plastic rivets that were melted to hold the door insert on. So you can snap all the heads off those to remove the door insert - you'll also need to remove the grab handle which is on a metal bracket - 2 screws into the handle and two holding on the bracket.

With the insert out you'll have to peel off the fabric, clean all the failed sticky foam off the insert itself (which is 0.5mm coated steel) and decide what fixings you're going to use to hold the insert on with when it fits back to the door.

I used some M5 short white nylon bolts and nylon flange nuts. You have to file the heads down flat so they don't show as bulges through the fabric. You also have to glue the underside of the heads down to the metal to stop them spinning when you try and get the nuts back on. It makes the whole thing quite a delicate process. If you put the nuts back on to hold the bolts whilst the glue sets, the chances are you'll just glue the whole thing together and the nuts won't come off when it's time to refit. Upholsterers tell me they use split pins for this kind of thing - fit them first, refit the fabric and then splay the ends once they're through the door card holes.

To renew the fabric you really need to stick some scrim foam to the back of it so it looks nice and padded and so it'll hide the bulges from the bolt heads or split pin ends, even if this doesn't seem like very much. Some people might try spray adhesive but this will probably just soak straight through the material - so read on...

Then to get the material stuck to the metal plate, I used 3M 9088-200 double sided tape, or you could use Tessa extra strong carpet tape (only the extra strong type though) or possibly 3M scotch carpet tape. As when sticking the material to the scrim foam - I'd avoid using spray or liquid adhesive as it'll soak straight through the thin door material and ruin it, so stick to double sided extra-strong tape (no pun intended).

Don't wash the fabric to get the powdered foam off the back of it - just brush it off. If you wash it off, it'll shrink and it'll barely fit back over the metal insert. The powder needs to be removed completely otherwise the double-sided tape won't stick well to the back side of the fabric.

Oh, and your window switch will have to come off - there are two screws into a metal frame bracket holding it on from inside. It clamps the switch, insert and door card together as one, so it does need to come off. You'll have to disconnect the switch from the door loom too.
Rover 216GSi K reg. Flame Red over Tempest Grey

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carfixmobile
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Location: Wiltshire

Re: Rear door card fabric

Post by carfixmobile »

A very comprehensive write up.

I just did the same to my rear door, fabric inserts. The pink foam had disintegrated and turned to dust and the white rivet heads were showing through the fabric.

I used some M5 countersunk bolts and recessed the existing mounting hole on the metal sheet to get a "flush" fitting. They were held in place with a dab of araldite.

The rest is as Johnny 216GSi using double sided tape to hold the new foam in position and again to hold the fabric.

Sounds a lot of work but it will look a lot better once done. :)

I am now going to do my front doors..........
alviseven
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Re: Rear door card fabric

Post by alviseven »

I used fir tree type fixers which already have a flush head and used a old external heated soldering iron to press the ends over to hold the units back on.
I was pedantic and used white ones to match the orginals but once on they do not come off again. You can heat them direct with a gas bunson burner putting a washer around the fir tree first and heating from the side and then pressing with a hammer head flat. Works a treat and really quick - obviously you cannot burn the fabric etc so you have to be careful but definitely the card off job but quite easy and very satisfying.
If it is just small part pulled you can tuck this around but the fabric will come out again no question. Just depends how many times the back door is opened - my kids no chance had to be glued and done properly. Used interior spray glue myself same as head lining in a can about £11 a pop but get the high temp stuff only
Twin G reg Red 216GSi Rovers
carfixmobile
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Location: Wiltshire

Re: Rear door card fabric

Post by carfixmobile »

I like the idea of using the "fir tree" type fixings. A good idea.

I also fixed the edge of the fabric onto the back of the metal sheet. Looks like that was the original method of fixing?

I agree it is very satisfying once done. Much better than the saggy original. :D
Topcat Tomcat
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Re: Rear door card fabric

Post by Topcat Tomcat »

I thought it was about time to start on mine.

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It’s going to be another sticky job, but at least it’s not as complicated as the headlining!

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As you can see below, I’ve left material under the stitching to prevent them becoming loose. The problem is, the foam is likely to collapse at some point, so I was wondering if there is any glue or resin that would soak into the foam and harden? I certainly don’t want saggy stitches!

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Topcat Tomcat (aka Conductorwomble)

1990 216 GSi Auto 5 Door
1995 214 iS 3 Door - White Gold
1998 VVC Coupe - Tahiti Blue/Red Piccadilly & Leather
2001 1.8 Connie 45 4 Door - Wedgewood Blue
2004 75 CDTi Connie - Firefrost
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