[cybercontroller]

This morning, the SRS light did not go out on the Rover 25 as it usually does, so am wondering if there is something that I can quickly check. I did give it a quick wash yesterday and used the Autoglym Cleaner and sanitiser in the interior. Also notice water ingress in the boot as there was some water sitting on the boot mat. During the interior cleaning I left the two nearside doors open and all four windows down. Although the front windows often open, the rears rarely do and I believe I heard somewhere one of those can trigger the error?
I now sometimes battery condition can affect this too.

Until now it has gone off after the six seconds.

[Johnny 216GSi]

This morning, the SRS light did not go out on the Rover 25 as it usually does, so am wondering if there is something that I can quickly check. I did give it a quick wash yesterday and used the Autoglym Cleaner and sanitiser in the interior. Also notice water ingress in the boot as there was some water sitting on the boot mat. During the interior cleaning I left the two nearside doors open and all four windows down. Although the front windows often open, the rears rarely do and I believe I heard somewhere one of those can trigger the error?
I now sometimes battery condition can affect this too.

Until now it has gone off after the six seconds.

The SRS check light is turned on during a "systems check" of all the supplemental restraint components in the car. On a 25, this would be the air bags and the seat-belt pre-tensioners. The check is for continuity / low resistivity of each component in the firing circuit.

As you've been cleaning the interior, it's likely you've disturbed one or more of the seat belt-pre-tensioner connectors or the airbag seating in the dash / steering wheel. You need to find the cabling that comes from the seat belt pre-tensioners under each front seat and break apart then refit the male-female connector pairs a few times to see if you can get a better connection. Be really careful with the pre-tensioners as they can be triggered by impact shocks. There should be a red plastic tag attached at one end that you can move into a slot on each pretensioner to stop accidental firing whilst you're fiddling with the connectors.

If you want to preserve the plug connections in the future, you could add a dab of Nyogel 760G ("torch grease") to ensure no more contact corrosion occurs and that any ingress of moisture condensing out of the air inside the car doesn't ever cause the plug/socket connections to fail again.

I know less about the steering wheel and passenger side airbags. I believe the steering wheel air bag can be removed as a complete unit and refitted. It has a couple of physical pins that need to contact the connections at the base of steering wheel / top of the steering column for it to pass the SRS test. I'm hoping someone who has removed and refitted the driver and passenger air bags may contribute to the thread, so you know exactly what to do.

You can buy SRS bypass devices such as https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154007145984. These boxes just contain a resistor as far as I know. You can jam their two pins into each SRS connector in the car loom, replacing the plug/socket on the wire from the pre-tensioners themselves. This causes the SRS system to register the component as functioning / connected correctly and if there was previously a problem, the fault should disappear (i.e. the SRS light goes out as expected). As you can probably tell from the quantity of devices in the kit (4), people use these to permanently bypass the car's SRS components so it passes its MOT. It offers a quick and dirty method of dealing with faulty SRS components to save the owner the expense of replacing one or more of them. Obviously, this behaviour can't be condoned at all, as the SRS components are there to save your life, and those of your passengers. However, as you can see, they're sold as debugging / fault finding devices in so much as plugging one in to the car in place of a pre-tensioner or air bag will indicate a faulty component if the SRS light goes out when it had stayed on previously.

[RoverRevival]

Connectors under the seats with yellow plug, cut it off and replace with bullet connectors.

[cybercontroller]

Thanks, that gives me something to work with. I think under the seats will be the place to start as I moved them all the way forward to get to the rear carpet.

[cybercontroller]

Just a little follow up query.

Should I disconnect the battery first as I don't want the airbags to trigger?
Would this be the correct grease? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166312174609 ... R5y65665Yw

[Johnny 216GSi]

Just a little follow up query.

Should I disconnect the battery first as I don't want the airbags to trigger?
Would this be the correct grease? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166312174609 ... R5y65665Yw

It may be wise to disconnect the battery first, yes.

No, that isn't the correct grease. That grease is for adding viscosity to mechanical control lubrication so they feel smoother when operated.

Nyogel 760G: https://www.flashaholics.co.uk/products ... -760g.html

Unfortunately, sold out. Keep looking for a cheap source of this item as it's good stuff and you only need a tiny, tiny amount per connection. It's become quite expensive, by the looks of it and I can't find a cheap option anywhere at the moment.

[cybercontroller]

Interestingly on another trip when I moved the seats the SRS light went out as it should for a couple of times but ten stayed on again. So had a look in the Haynes manual and finding those connectors seems to be more tricky than I would have hoped. I feel I will need more guidance. Hoping for assistance at Pride of Longbridge.

[redandwhitE]

I took the under seat connectors (yellow plugs) apart and sprayed a little GT 85 in each one and then plugged them back together.

It may be worthwhile adding a bit of electrical tape around the outside to keep them together and properly seated.

[rjessett]

Interestingly on another trip when I moved the seats the SRS light went out as it should for a couple of times but ten stayed on again. So had a look in the Haynes manual and finding those connectors seems to be more tricky than I would have hoped. I feel I will need more guidance. Hoping for assistance at Pride of Longbridge.

At POL, we on the Rover Coupe Owners Club stand will have our T4's so we should be able to tell you exaclty where the fault is .... and help you find the connectors for sure

[cybercontroller]

Great, thanks for that. Rover Coupé Owners Club to the rescue again.