[Plodder]

Can anyone tell me if the driveshafts for a 1991 416 are the same for Automatics and manuals or are they different lengths. If they are different does anyone know the part numbers for both the near side and off sidey.

[g259fsg]

I looked up the original parts list and got the following:

214 and 414 models

GCV1060 RH
GCV1059 LH

216 and 416 models (manual)

GCV1062 RH
GCV1061 LH

and

GCV1064 RH
GCV1063 LH

Not sure why there are two options, maybe revision on VIN number

For automatic s it gives a number FDU2883 for Auto. Googling this it looks like a different assembly to the ones used on the manual boxes.

Maybe you can Google the above numbers and see what looks like the bits on your car. Why do you want to replace the driveshafts rather than refurb them?

Cheers,
Hugh

[Plodder]

Thanks for the information Hugh.

Looks like the GCV1064 RH and GCV1063 LH are for later models with ABS. So its likely to be the top two numbers.

Currently there’s nothing wrong with the shafts, famous last words

But I like to know and keep a record of the parts number related to the car .

Also when the last set of CV boots were fitted on both sides they were unable to push the shaft out of the hub so they had to pull the shaft out from the gearbox instead. I would like to have the hubs rebuilt and regreased at some point so I’n just trying to cover all bases if the shaft can’t be removed or are damaged during removal.
Thanks again for the information you found.

[alviseven]

pretty certain that back in the day the rover scrap yard in Bham sold me an auto driveshaft for my car and just told me to reuse the inner end
Sorry cannot be more certain it is before records began! Cannot even remember which side it was but think it was the longer one on the ns

[Plodder]

Thanks for that I’ll keep that in mind when I have the hubs rebuilt.

I’m hoping that when they do the hubs they will be able to push the shafts out under a press. I guess when they do the cv boots they just want to turn the job round as quickly as possible so wouldn’t have spent time trying to dismantle the hub.

[g259fsg]

After you've got the hub off the splined shaft on the CV joint, the drive shaft (also splined) is pulled out of the CV joint. The inner end of the driveshaft (the spider) which goes into the gearbox cannot be replaced, it's an integral part of the driveshaft so the whole assembly has to be replaced if the joint is faulty. With the CV joint off and the rubber damper, you can replace the rubber boot on the inner joint. I usually pull this boot back put in some new CV grease when servicing the driveshaft. I've found this boot to be long lasting. Some folk do replace the CV joint/gaiter while keeping the driveshaft still fitted to the car, so that it isn't necessary to drain the gearbox. I've not found that to be particularly successful as the CV joint is sometimes quite hard to drive off the shaft because the circlip. Much easier with the shaft in a vice off the car. Fortunately, I've always been able to slide the hub off the CV joint but it should move with a workshop press. However I can see this is quite a big job as you would need to take the hub off the car suspension. Have you tried taking off the caliper and brake disc and getting a lever behind the joint. Then hit the shaft with nut off while applying some force with the lever. It might start to shift it.

[Plodder]

I’ve never tried removing it myself but have had two frustrated mechanics trying to do it on the car. The second one I trusted more than the first one.
I think once the hub and shaft are off the car it might be easier under a press. I think it’s probably a job I don’t want to start if I can’t finish it , particularly as I don’t have access to a press