If these 3rd party companys cant be bothered to make the spring the correct size for contact with the rotar arm then i dont think ill be buying their dizzy caps again
My car problems.
You wont belive what it was and how simple it was to fix.. Look at this pic. The center terminal for the coil, the one on the right was out further than the one on the left. It was only 3mm shorter but what a nightmare sorting it out
A pull of thr spring to extend it sorted out all the trouble i was having with the misfires and the crackling noises coming from the coil pack etc etc.
If these 3rd party companys cant be bothered to make the spring the correct size for contact with the rotar arm then i dont think ill be buying their dizzy caps again
If these 3rd party companys cant be bothered to make the spring the correct size for contact with the rotar arm then i dont think ill be buying their dizzy caps again
Craig MGR wrote:So your saying buy genuine X part dizzy caps?
Yes and no. The one i have on is 3rd party and all i did was pull the coil terminal out a touch as the spring wasnt long enough. My mechanic told me that with every dizzy cap he replaces he pulls the coil spring terminal out a few mm as they are never 100% correct.
An official cap at my local Colliers is £19.99 were as an unofficial 1 is around a tenner.
Its happening again
Today i picked up some new ht leads and it made no difference. I changed the rotor arm for a used one and it made no difference. I changed the dizzy cap for a used one and once again it made no difference.
I tried the used parts with the new leads.
What others things are causing this to happen?, cus to be honest im getting fed up of it!
Edit:... Its only happening when the engine is warm.
Today i picked up some new ht leads and it made no difference. I changed the rotor arm for a used one and it made no difference. I changed the dizzy cap for a used one and once again it made no difference.
I tried the used parts with the new leads.
What others things are causing this to happen?, cus to be honest im getting fed up of it!
Edit:... Its only happening when the engine is warm.
Does it cut out when it is misfiring?
I ask as our old 214 used to misfire like crazy when warm on certain days (wet or very humid). Used to judder in all gears and pop flames out the back. Scared a few people on the motorway
Finally you would have to pull over and it would cut out and not restart for about 10 mins. Then it would seem to be okay.
That turned out to be corroded connections on the fuel pump
I ask as our old 214 used to misfire like crazy when warm on certain days (wet or very humid). Used to judder in all gears and pop flames out the back. Scared a few people on the motorway
That turned out to be corroded connections on the fuel pump
Rover 220 GTi Turbo.
Smithy wrote:Does it cut out when it is misfiring?
Nope, but it used to before i changed the crank sensor ;)
Where is the fuel pump and how do i check its ok, what should i do with it? If they'er not to much ill just change it.... How easy are they to fit and take off?
If it is just the connections what should i do????
Just phoned a garage and they said it could be the valves sticking. The head has to come off so i said they might as well change the gasket too.
Price? £600 + VAT
Where is the money going i asked? They said the head has to be skimmed, a crack and water test will be performed and of course the price of the valves and gasket etc etc etc etc....
Is this more than i should be paying?
Price? £600 + VAT
Where is the money going i asked? They said the head has to be skimmed, a crack and water test will be performed and of course the price of the valves and gasket etc etc etc etc....
Is this more than i should be paying?