I can pop my boot open with the key or the lever but closing it is another story.
I spent 45 mins today trying to get the boot to click closed.
Upon inspecting the mechanism it is very loose, I can move the bar a good inch without affecting the lock at all!
I couldnt take any of the plastic trim off ( other than the two panels on the inside of the boot lid) for fear of breaking anything.
I'm hoping it's just a spring or something and not a complete mechanism jobbie.
Has anyone had experience with this as an issue? Is it an easy job/fix? Or will I need to get a whole mechanism?
Boot problems
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RetroRacer
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Boot problems
1994 L reg 216 SLi
- Johnny 216GSi
- Club Treasurer
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- Location: Birmingham - the home of Rover!
Re: Boot problems
I assume by "move it an inch" you mean the striker bar, and you also mean up and down, not left and right!
There is some tolerance of left/right misalignment as the sides of the lock are sloped to guide the striker bar in. But if it's "out" then it will pull the hatch or boot left or right when slammed, so you'll see unequal panel gaps to the rear quarter top edges.
You didn't mention what car you have, but there is a "standard" lock mechanism that is interchangeable between the MK2, 400/45, etc. It might be wise to source one of these - that's what most people do when the boot fails to shut reliably.
I've never personally looked into repairing one of these. In essence the lock is quite a simple mechanism and I'm not sure why they fail, but I'd guess at the point where there's some misalignment and people start slamming the boot it only starts to degrade the mechanism faster. Perhaps people think that the mechanism is just lacking a bit of grease and so getting it to shut at all costs is the thing that will loosen it up and make it work better next time. This doesn't seem to be the case.
It's only a shaped hook, (sprung loaded) that's forced open during the slam and then closes around the striker bar. It's latched by a minutely-overlapping retaining lever which is pulled externally by the boot lock key mechanism when it's turned. On the R8, there's a rubber-topped "nudge" cap on the striker bar half which also moves that lever to release the boot (from the internal boot-release pull handle on the driver's side floor).
There is some tolerance of left/right misalignment as the sides of the lock are sloped to guide the striker bar in. But if it's "out" then it will pull the hatch or boot left or right when slammed, so you'll see unequal panel gaps to the rear quarter top edges.
You didn't mention what car you have, but there is a "standard" lock mechanism that is interchangeable between the MK2, 400/45, etc. It might be wise to source one of these - that's what most people do when the boot fails to shut reliably.
I've never personally looked into repairing one of these. In essence the lock is quite a simple mechanism and I'm not sure why they fail, but I'd guess at the point where there's some misalignment and people start slamming the boot it only starts to degrade the mechanism faster. Perhaps people think that the mechanism is just lacking a bit of grease and so getting it to shut at all costs is the thing that will loosen it up and make it work better next time. This doesn't seem to be the case.
It's only a shaped hook, (sprung loaded) that's forced open during the slam and then closes around the striker bar. It's latched by a minutely-overlapping retaining lever which is pulled externally by the boot lock key mechanism when it's turned. On the R8, there's a rubber-topped "nudge" cap on the striker bar half which also moves that lever to release the boot (from the internal boot-release pull handle on the driver's side floor).
Last edited by Johnny 216GSi on Wed Nov 11, 2020 6:23 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Rover 216GSi K reg. Flame Red over Tempest Grey


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Paul_1978_yorks
- Club Member
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- Location: Wakefield, West Yorks
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Re: Boot problems
Sounds like a faulty boot latch - very common problem. Cheap on eBay and easy to swap.
Current:
2018 Volvo V40 Cross Country
Former:
214 SEi x4, 216 SLi, 216 Cabriolet, 416 GSi, 420 GSi Tourer, 25, 45, 75
2018 Volvo V40 Cross Country
Former:
214 SEi x4, 216 SLi, 216 Cabriolet, 416 GSi, 420 GSi Tourer, 25, 45, 75
Re: Boot problems
Will be the black plastic buffer on boot lock ( put my money on that one ) or spring gone i have good r8 boot locks and later 45 ones if you need any pm me 
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RetroRacer
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- Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2020 7:30 pm
Re: Boot problems
Thanks for the replies guys, perhaps I should have used pictures, it certainly would have made the explaining easier!
The bit that moves is the horizontal bar inside the tailgate itself, could this just be the spring gone?
The cable running from the lever in the drivers footwell is stretched to its limit still just about pops to boot though.
I did see a slight misalignment of the tailgate when attempting the closure earlier.
The bit that moves is the horizontal bar inside the tailgate itself, could this just be the spring gone?
The cable running from the lever in the drivers footwell is stretched to its limit still just about pops to boot though.
I did see a slight misalignment of the tailgate when attempting the closure earlier.
1994 L reg 216 SLi
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RetroRacer
- Forum User
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- Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2020 7:30 pm
Re: Boot problems
A big thank you to Chris (916tat) for my new boot lock mechanism which I have finally got round to fitting, I am now able to use the boot again! 
1994 L reg 216 SLi
Re: Boot problems
Thank you 99% of the time its the plastic buffer that wears away perhaps we could 3D print this part one dayRetroRacer wrote: ↑Mon Feb 22, 2021 9:05 am A big thank you to Chris (916tat) for my new boot lock mechanism which I have finally got round to fitting, I am now able to use the boot again!![]()
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RetroRacer
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Re: Boot problems
That would be helpful as it seems to be a common problem.
Inevitable really when you mix plastic with metal parts, would it not be better to make one out of metal?
Or wouls that just potentially deform causing more problems?
1994 L reg 216 SLi
Re: Boot problems
Rover 25 is all metal a move forward in my view ,but maybe its the way they are fitted my cabriolet as the original one on and looks like new and its 28 years old 150 k I've had it 6 years and boot get use alot in summer and on the other hand my 214 sei I got last year ate its self in 2 months of everyday use fitted a good second and all OK after 10 months every day use , shopping car and grand kids love it because you can see outsideRetroRacer wrote: ↑Thu Feb 25, 2021 10:50 amThat would be helpful as it seems to be a common problem.
Inevitable really when you mix plastic with metal parts, would it not be better to make one out of metal?
Or wouls that just potentially deform causing more problems?