Think I might need to replace the thermostat on our 1990 214 GSi. Hasn't been done since new, but sometimes it takes a long time for the engine to warm up properly and produce heat in the car, so I suspect I might be sticking open. Has anyone done this job on the 1.4 engine. Seems a bit inaccessible at the back of the engine. The Haynes manual recommends removing the inlet manifold to gain access, which seems a bit drastic. Is it possible to do the job without doing this, perhaps from underneath? Probably need to replace some gaskets along with the thermostat.

Thanks for any advice,

Hugh

Also get new seals for the thermostat housing, they are only O-rings and likely to be no good for reuse after 28 years.

£18 rimmers, just buy the entire housing. Job done.

Have you got a part number for the housing and thermostat. Had a bit of trouble finding it. Also, what is the best option for accessing it. Is it best to remove the inlet manifold?

Thanks

Your best bet is to just try removing the stat housing without taking off the manifold and see how it suits. You can always remove the manifold if you find it too hard.
Is your car single or mutipoint injection?

For a car as early as yours, PEM10013 with 82C thermostat is probably the housing you need (VINs 200000 to 378086). PEM10024 with 88C thermostat is the equivalent for VIN 378087 to Engine 455693. These have a transition hose sleeve to couple it to the steel coolant pipe. Later revisions plug into a revised coolant pipe without the coupling sleeve.

PEM10013 is shown NLA and apparently supercedes to PEM100950. Unfortunately neither is illustrated on the Rimmer site for confirmation.

I find I have to rummage in the Metro hierarchy for some of these early engine parts nowadays : https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID000573

As to access, I surmised the same as you, so made sure I changed my thermostat while the head was off!. If you do take the manifold off, you may still find other aspects awkward, such as cleaning baked on gasket fragments from the mounting face on the head.

as stated, everything you need.

If you try and re-use anything it will leak. Done too many and all have leaked so for the sake of £18.75+vat i just replace the lot.

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-PEM10025LP

The o-rings roll out of place and its a right PITA to get right, I just bought the entire housing new and got
my MOT place to throw it on for me as I CNBA to do it.

Thanks everyone for the very helpful replies. As one of you said, my car is very early and has an alloy thermostat housing, with the output end connecting to a short hose which goes to the coolant rail pipe at the back of the engine. I did replace that pipe many years ago and recall it was very difficult to access, but all I had to do was push it onto the end of the hose. I mostly worked on it from underneath.

Reading about the problems with leaks, I wonder how good a seal I would get to the head if I removed the complete thermostat housing. I see Rimmers sell an oversized O-ring seal (CDU3858OS) - probably means it can leak. It was probably fine when everything was new, but with a bit of surface corrosion?? I've had a good look at it, and will probably remove the inlet manifold so I can get at it. I'm thinking of just taking off the end plate to access the thermostat and leave the housing fixed to the head as it doesn't seems to have leaks at the join. I'd need a new gasket and to clean up the surfaces, but I wouldn't have to worry abut O-ring seals as the other end is onto a hose. The Haynes Manual does say removing the inlet manifold means you don't need to disturb the thermostat housing. I wonder why the early engines used a 82 degC thermostat (GTS282) and the later ones 88 degC (GTS298).

What a pity they didn't put the thermostat at the other end of the metal pipe next to the distributor and then it would so much easier.

Thanks again for all the helpful advice,

Hugh

g259fsg wrote: ↑Wed Sep 26, 2018 4:55 pm I wonder why the early engines used a 82 degC thermostat (GTS282) and the later ones 88 degC (GTS298)

Probably to help the engine warm up faster to reduce fuel enrichment times and improve fuel economy - especially on short journeys. The longer the thermostat is closed, the quicker the water in the engine will reach operating temp, as it doesn't have to overcome the cooling effect of the extra water in the heater matrix and system and any heat being distributed into the cabin on those very cold mornings.