Rover 200 & 400 Owners Club

guynosborne · Post by **guynosborne** » Thu Jul 04, 2024 3:55 pm

Hi All
Both my electric window now refuse to work, the nearside from last year and the offside last month. Unfortunately the latter is stuck in the halfway up position so I have to do something (can't take the garage with me everywhere!) I have checked fuse 18 (10A), which is common with the wing mirrors, but the fuse is OK, and the wing mirrors work. I am now assuming that I will have to look at the electric connector, which is inside the front offside door. This involves taking off the trim, a job I hate as old plastic studs break and ping everywhere. Before I do this, am I on the right track, or have I missed a trick?
Out of interest the fuse box cover shows fuse 18 is wing mirrors only, which is a bit odd, but possibly because electric windows were an optional extra at the time (I'm guessing here) Haynes says fuse 18 is both mirrors and windows.
If the connector is caput I might have to source one, any ideas?
Thanks for any wisdom on this matter

itcaptainslow · Post by **itcaptainslow** » Thu Jul 04, 2024 4:11 pm

Easiest way to narrow things down is to remove the door trim (get hold of a set of trim tools and do it on a warm day, so the plastic is more pliable), and check for a live feed at the end of the wiring harness where it plugs into the motor. You should see 12v when the switch is actuated.

If you do - it’s either a motor or seized window regulator.

If you don’t - it’s time for wiring continuity checks and tracing further back along the circuit to find where the issue lies.

Montegoman · Post by **Montegoman** » Thu Jul 04, 2024 5:41 pm

Have you tried helping it by pulling it up with your hand as you hold the button. Sometimes the glass sticks to the rubber and the resistance is too much for the motor to cope with. Spray some rubber lubricant in the guides will help. I have to do this to mine after it has been parked up for winter.

g259fsg · Post by **g259fsg** » Thu Jul 04, 2024 6:22 pm

I had a problem like this a while back on our 1990 214 GSi. It turned out to be a broken wire somewhere in the harness going into the door (driver's side). Probably broken by metal fatigue after 30+years. Fortunately, the problem in my case was that you could no longer operate the passenger side window from the driver's door which was not a great loss as everything else worked. So I didn't bother to fix it. Getting at the wiring is challenging. If you have the door panel off, you could try operating the window by connecting +12V to the appropriate connection on the motor. This would allow you to close the window assuming the motor is working. I agree, it's a good idea to lubricate the slides that the glass goes into and also the window mechanism as all this can get stiff. Even if it is stiff, you should still hear the motor trying.

It's a good example of the gizmos you get on more modern cars that seem nice when the car is new, but just give trouble later on. Imagine what a new car would be like in a few years. Hopeless.

guynosborne · Post by **guynosborne** » Tue Oct 01, 2024 10:28 am

Hi All - just checking that I can successfully post an update regarding my electric windows. 2 pictures enclosed of the removed window assist.

guynosborne · Post by **guynosborne** » Tue Oct 01, 2024 10:47 am

I have just sent a post showing two pictures of the window assist that we removed from my drivers side front window. Prior to this we checked the relay and found that it seemed to work OK (a satisfying clunk was heard when the drivers side window switch was operated). However, when the motor was tested with a live connection no response was found from the motor, hence the whole unit was inoperable
We have jammed the window shut for now with two pieces of appropiately cut wood, and so the car is drivable. Luckily I have a sunroof, so we are OK for now.
Our next move is to try and dissemble the motor to see if it can be repaired. Unfortunately it is riveted together, and so the job is not easy. I am wondering whether to remove the motor first, or remove the whole gear and motor. Both will require the rivets to be drilled out. Before we start I am wondering whether any members have done this and can offer some advice.
We have tried to source spare parts, or scrap cars, but my sources (Rimmer, Bradford) tell me that these are not available or have dried up. I am wondering whether anyone knows of suitable scrap cars which might be robbed for spares?
Guy Osborne

220 GSi turbo · Post by **220 GSi turbo** » Tue Oct 01, 2024 8:22 pm

There are a few people on eBay breaking R8s for spares: here is a listing from one of them:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195543687974 ... R7DzzJvJZA

There is a phone number in the advert too, so it may be worth a call to see if the window regulator is available.

961tat · Post by **961tat** » Tue Oct 01, 2024 9:24 pm

Sorry just sold one I have replace motors before drill out as you say and replace with counter sunk self tapping screws , I may still have motor available if your going down that road .

Rover 412GSi 1990 electric windows

Rover 412GSi 1990 electric windows

Re: Rover 412GSi 1990 electric windows

Re: Rover 412GSi 1990 electric windows

Re: Rover 412GSi 1990 electric windows

Re: Rover 412GSi 1990 electric windows

Re: Rover 412GSi 1990 electric windows

Re: Rover 412GSi 1990 electric windows

Re: Rover 412GSi 1990 electric windows