Just getting around to replacing the Track Rod Ends on my 91 Rover 416 which I brought from Rimmers 5 years ago but have never fitted them.
However as I am working through replacing all the bushes and parts on the front suspension I decided it was time to fit them.
The parts brought from Rimmers is Part No is QJB100120P , this is the number still showing on Rimmers web site and the number on the box.

Both the Rover and the Haynes manual show the nut holding the end of the track rod to the hub as having a split pin to hold it in position.

However the part in the box doesn't have a split pin to hold the nut in place but uses a nylock nut instead.

The pictures on the Rimmers website show the original part number as having a Nylock nut.

Are all track rod ends now like this this or can you still get ones with the nut and the split pin?

I'm probably a bit old school but it doesn't seem right not having a split pin above the nut on such a critical part.

As an owner of a garage I can't remember the last time I was supplied any suspension component with a castle nut

Nylocks will be fine unless you flying and need the nuts wired on .

Thanks for both your inputs.
Sadly I’m old enough to remember the days of castle nuts, just! and I spent a career to the aerospace industry.

I’ll fit as supplied.

As a DIY’er I don’t necessarily have previous experience of some jobs or it was decades ago so it’s good to get some professionals feedback.
Thanks.

As a great fan of 'originality', I experienced the same disappointment a couple of years ago when I ordered new track rod ends for my 220

Having said that, none of my other cars have left the factory with castellated nuts and split pins in their suspension components (from classic Mini, Austin 1300 etc all the way through to a Honda Civic FN2), so it must be a strange quirk of what Honda was doing in the 1980s when the R8 was designed. The lower swivel joints also have split pins....

Belt and braces - also apply threadlock.

Thanks for all the comments.
Have cleaned all the threads, lubricated them with penetrating oil and managed to break the grip on the tie rod lock nuts and all the parts are moveable.
So hopefully now a straightforward replacement, fingers crossed.

Do you have a cunning plan of how to preserve the current tracking setting?

I believe the trick is :
undo the tie rod locknut by half a turn, remove the old track rod end,
fit the new track rod end to the lock nut, back the new end off by half a turn
then do up the lock nut.
I’m not too fussed if it’s out a bit as it needs checking.
Not sure how easy the rear adjustment will be as I don’t think its been done for over 20 years so my next job is to work out which threads to clean up and lubricate for the rear adjustment.

I think the rear adjustment's fairly straightforward. There's a short link at the front of the trailing arm - the mounting where it connects to the body is slotted. Slacken the bolt then move the front end of the arm as required. I guess you'd only really need to make sure that one bolt is free.