Hi first post here, hoping someone could shed some light on an issue I’ve got with my 1995 214sei 16v
I’ve just bought the car, it’s immaculate, only has 11000miles on the clock, garaged for the last 14 years! car wouldn’t start initially - just ignition lights - changed the battery in the remote and got it to crank but no fuel pump - checked the relay which was fine, so bridged the relay to manually power the fuel pump and it fired up straight away, revving at 1500rpm even when warm - as soon as I took it for a very short run the idle jumped to around 4-5k
Checked the vacuum line from the ecu and I can blow down it so it’s not blocked, assume it’s providing a vacuum but didn’t want to start the car again until I’d got a better idea of what may be going on

I saw online somewhere that the key may need to be paired with the ecu to get the fuel pump running, so I tried what was suggested (locked car, key in barrel, 4-5preses of the lock button) but no luck


Can anyone help?

Thx in advance

Andy

Hi Andy
Welcome to the Forum & Club, Ive not been a member on here long, my 1994 214SI has 29000, I thought that was low but 11000 is impressive! Do you have any photos & where are you located?

I'm no expert on the Engine Management Systems or the key Fobs, but as I understand it, I have the earlier RF type Fob, mine doesnt work! But the car operates fine just using the key in the ignition & locking the drivers door to operate the CL & the Alarm. I think you may have the later type Fob, and as I understand it from others on the Forum, these are still available & can be reprogrammed??

Your issue to me however sounds like an Electrical Issue, maybe the ECU is faulty? I don't know how you would test this? maybe somebody else can advise?

One thought; do you know why the car was taken off the road originally and was this related to the issue you have now?

Best wishes
Mark
Bournville
Birmingham

If you've got an Android phone, you can get a free diagnostic App from Rover Mems https://rovermems.com/. You'll need the connecting cable to go from the three-pin diagnostic connector to the USB port on your phone. This will tell you several things about the idle. Is the ECU reading the RPM correctly? What's the throttle stepping motor doing, and what does the throttle position indicator read at the ECU. I don't think the MAP sensor has much influence on the idle, but the ECU should be reading about 34kPa if the MAP is working properly.

Hugh

HI - on these cars if the Remote operates the central locking, its all working, and if it cranks and runs, then the immobiliser side of things is just fine

If its shooting up to 5000rpm - I would firstly look for air leaks on the inlet tract. then it would be an idea to get it on Testbook/T4 Diagnostics to see whats what. could be a sticky throttle body..

Mark A Wright wrote: ↑Sun Aug 23, 2026 8:10 pm
I'm no expert on the Engine Management Systems or the key Fobs, but as I understand it, I have the earlier RF type Fob, mine doesnt work! But the car operates fine just using the key in the ignition & locking the drivers door to operate the CL & the Alarm. I think you may have the later type Fob, and as I understand it from others on the Forum, these are still available & can be reprogrammed??

early '94 should be the infrared fob system (if fitted, it was optional on the 5 door, you can tell as it has a black dome on the interior light) - is almost impossible to service the infrared system (although im working on it) but we do have a conversion kit to convert it to the later (post 94.5MY) 5AS RF system we sell in the Rover Coupe Owners Club, so there is a solution for Infrared cars...

O.P States it's a 95 car so probably a plastic inlet manifold; plastic I.M have a different throttle body to the 94 M.Y alloy I.M and possibly a different fuel map as the latter breath's better at hight revs 70-90 MPH specifically. 94 model year cars work with just the key in the drivers door.