finally solving my oil burning problems out, got the cab down at craigs. Heres a few pics of it so far, judging by the pics my engine was in a realy bad way

http://s1127.photobucket.com/albums/l623/ickysky1/k10/

only need some bearing and we're back on the road.

You'll be needing a good looking cam cover to go on your rebuilt engine, surely.....

http://www.rover200.org.uk/forums/viewt ... =21&t=6170

where can i get a nice new 1 from?

Doesn't need a new one just a refurb.

My 'spare' is available - it was £20 on ebay. So for the same it can be yours....

A can of wrinkle paint later and it'll top off your engine bay nicely

hondas burn oil. always have done always will do . on the vtecs its common for them toburn a litre a month or 2 ifyou hammer it alot *laughs* . even says that in the honda build manuals from honda *laughs*

i can point you in the direction of a bran new bottom end for 100 pound if u like

Only need to the shells adding and timing and start nipping some bolts up and job is done... and oil

I can confirm this rebuild was completed and runs so smooth its unreal.

Total cost of job including parts £415, happy to do another one if needed as long as your not in any hurry.

If your engine is burning oil [ vaporising from around the piston/cylinder wall] as opposed to leaking valve oil seals, try using a fully synthetic quality 10-40. Much higher resistance to oxidisation.

My previous 216 GSI started using a bit of oil from 100k miles onwards ran that on Castrol though. Put that down to leaky exhaust valve seals, as she still went well. I had her from 3 years old and put 100,000 on the clock. As some one else so neatly phrased it " you don't realise what a good car a Rover 200 is until you've got rid"

A change from Castrol to Shell Helix cured my Merc! Semi Synthetic isn't actually synthetic at all, in case anybody still doesn't know. Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs by the way.



TB