[Plodder]

I’m trying to disconnect the pipe from the steering rack to the power steering pump at the pump end on a 1991 Rover 416 DOHC with Honda engine.
The goal was to drain the power steering fluid off as I don’t think its ever been changed in the 27 years I’ve owned the car.
The union is turning in the pump body but not on the pipe itself. It seems to be corroded solid, unless I’m doing something wrong.



l’ve used copious amounts of WD40 on it but it wont budge. I’m amazed the pipe hasn’t bent yet.
It’s obviously moved a bit as I can’t now tighten the pipe back up with the union so it needs to come off now whether I want to or not.
Has anyone else experienced this problem or got any solutions or miracle products?
Worst case I chop the end off and get a pipe company to remake the pipe and union. Don’t really want to go in that direction.
Not sure taking a blow torch to it would do the pump much good either.
Any thoughts would be gratefully received.

Added Note
Out of interest has anyone used this product or similar - Arctic Hayes Crack-it Shock Release Spray.
If so did it work or is it a waste of money?

[g259fsg]

Certainly had this problem quite a few times with brake pipes over the years, and usually end up making a new brake pipe. A small job turns into a bigger one, though I now have the flaring tools so I can quickly make up a new pipe. Now try to use brass rather than steel ferrules which along with copper bake pipe are less likely to seize.

If the pipe's been on that long, it probably isn't going to move. Can't tell from the pic whether it's the same size as a 3/16" brake pipe or something special.

[GTiJohn]

If the pipe's been on that long, it probably isn't going to move. Can't tell from the pic whether it's the same size as a 3/16" brake pipe or something special.

It's a bigger bore than std brake pipe, as it has to flow fluid, rather than just transmit pressure.

[Plodder]

The pipe is pretty strong considering it hasn’t bent or collapsed with all the force I’ve applied. As it’s in a lock up garage with no power its a bit difficult to get any heat on the joint. Might try heating the area up with hot water and then using the freeze/release spray I’ve found. Taking the pipe off might not be that simple if the other end exhibits the same problem

[StubbornPatriot]

I'd be tempted to repeatedly tap the union with a small hammer whilst wiggling the pipe as close to the union as is practical/possible. Can you get a thin piece of wood (8mm ish), wide enough to cover the bend, clamped above and below the pipe (a pipe sandwich) to give more rigidity and then possibly use a bit more force on the union? I guess access might make this difficult but worth a try if you can. Can you not get an extension lead(s) through to the garage to make an electrical way of heating it up possible? Or a small gas soldering torch (if safe to use in the circumstance)?

[Plodder]

I’ll have a go with the pipe sandwich idea.
The WD40 site recommends tapping as well. Had wondered if I can somehow fit my cordless driver , on a torque setting , to the other end of the spanner. Then the vibration from the slipping clutch might help. Might not do the driver’s clutch any good. Sadly the garage is situated a long way from any accessible power supply. I have looked at a cheap cordless air hot gun on Amazon as a possible solution.
Thanks again everyone for their suggestions

[crepello]

You might try a block of hardwood of manageable size, drill a hole close-fitting on the pipe, and split it
so it can be clamped like a collet on the pipe, and allow you to tap the pipe axially. As the union has
partly unscrewed, there ought to be a bit of axial clearance to enable the pipe to shift.

[Plodder]

I’m still struggling to break the rust on the power steering pump union and have now bent the pipe at the pump end. Although I think it still usable just
How easy is it to disconnect the union on the other end of the high pressure hose from the pump?
Looking at the pictures there appears to be a short length of pipe from the steering rack box presumably to a fitting on the rear sub frame. This I guess will then connect to the longer pipe/ hose running up to the pump.
Just wondering how much stuff I need to remove to break this joint and whether it’s straightforward to lift the pipe out through the top the engine bay.

I can then take a blow torch to the union to break it from the pump and get someone to fabricate and fit a new metal pipe and fitting. I don’t particularly want to heat the union in the car as I don’t know how much oil is in the system or how flammable it might be.

All this just because I thought the power steering fluid needed changing


Actually looking at the Rimmers page it appears to be one complete pipe/hose assembly from the steering box to the pump. Differs from the diagram I have in the manual.