[Robsee]

The adapter nut for the wheel locking nuts is locked in there! Obviously, I have now learned it is was a bad idea to keep it there only having one key... duh! Could do with a couple of new tyres for the MOT and to stay lawful.

I have tried wrigling around several small sized screwdrivers and an extended paper clip whilst turning the lock but to no avail. There is a gap to get a screwdriver between the box cover and the dashboard but obviously don't particularly want to break the lock/box.

Will it be possible to get a replacement key and if so how so and does anyone have any ideas on to how to get it open in the meantime without damaging anything?

Any help appreciated, thank you.

[RoverRevival]

2x 8mm bolts hold the bottom of the glove box on.

Might get you the access you require.

[Robsee]

Thanks RR, got the bolts out but still can't get in from the bottom. It won't budge. Not knowing how it is configured does not help. There is probably a way to agreesivly twist to release the hook without breaking anything.

Will perhaps have to take into the garage I use for servicing or telephone around some local mobile mechanics to see if they can help.

[Johnny 216GSi]

The whole pivot rail for the glove box is held on to the dash and the metal frame behind it using 3 bolts that are either side of the lower edge of the glove box door. These remove the entire glove box including the slow-open air damper as one unit including the pressed metal bottom rail. I know I can get access with the glove box open (you can see the bolt heads) but I'm not sure with the box closed. You can probably just about see them with your head upside down in the passenger footwell looking up - think you'd need a torch. Not sure if you could get a spanner in there or they're effectively closed off by the door being shut. If you can see the threaded ends coming through the metal frame on both sides, maybe you could try and grip them and undo them from the back.

Unfortunately the lock is just about as secure as the door locks - it's essentially an identical tumbler and barrel, so high security and you won't open it with a paperclip! It needs the proper key that replicates every lever level inside. If the barrel is very worn, you might be able to jiggle the lock open with another Rover key - if you've got a mate or two with the same keys, you could try a few - but I doubt this is going to work as I don't think the barrel will be sufficiently worn...

You could try and drill through the centre of the lock, then buy another lock and key set - someone on Ebay has them (original Valeo units) for £14.49 and they come with 2 keys - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-200-40 ... 2042909996. Never drilled a lock before, and I'm not sure just putting a drill bit down the centre will actually do anything... you'd need to practically destroy the tumbler (without drilling through the back of the glove box cover) so you can just turn what's left with a flat-blade screwdriver. Or you could call a locksmith I suppose, if only for some advice!

Think you can remove the lock cover once the glove box is open, so you can then replace the lock.

[Russnp]

I'm not sure if there are still places around that can cut you a key if you have the original Austin rover code. These were supplied as a small tag with the original key sets

[220 GSi turbo]

OK, am I correct in assuming that your car has the later dashboard?

I have a spare non-locking glovebox in the garage and will have a look at it tomorrow morning to try to work out what the consequences of you forcing the lock might be.

[220 GSi turbo]

Having had a look at my spare glovebox and also at the arrangement of the latch etc on our Rover 25s, I think you would be in with a reasonable chance of success if you release the hinge screws again and then do the 'aggressive twist' you mentioned! The weakest part is the plastic striker plate that the metal latch on the glovebox hooks in to: I would think that the most likely outcome is that you would break this plastic striker (which also holds the glovebox lamp switch) and a replacement would be easy to get hold of from a scrap 25. As would a replacement glovebox, if the worst case scenario of damaging the glovebox or latch occurs.

Incidentally, the latch assembly on a 25 is identical to the locking type: it just does not have a lock barrel fitted in the hole!

The question of replacement keys was raised: unfortunately the glovebox lock barrel on the 1996-onwards cars does not use the same type of key as the rest of the locks on the car (unlike pre-1996 cars).
The glovebox key is thinner than the standard door/ignition key, possibly a similar type to that used on the locking fuel cap that was available as a Rover accessory at the time.

[Mr Teddy Bear]

The key code is on a tag with one set of keys plus on a card along with the radio code in the drivers wallet/handbook. A MG/Rover Dealer with a key cutting machine should sort you out.

Quick thought, and when the people in Wickwar don't want their machine any more would the club consider buying it? I may be able to get one cut down here if you're struggling?

[RoverRevival]

If the club didn’t I would depending on the price.

[GTiJohn]

If the club didn’t I would depending on the price.

This is probably the better option....