[Plodder]

Tried to start the car this afternoon after washing it and it failed to start . Don't think washing it has anything to do with the problem but I've got to set the scene
Left it for a little while no more than ten minutes) and it started fine. Repeatedly started after this with no problem.
Second time this has occurred in the last two years.
Have checked the forum and can't see anyone discussing a similar issue.

So here the symptoms.

Turn the key to position 1 the engine check light comes on.
Normally I hear a hum and after a second or two a click and the engine check light goes out.
However when the engine wont start there is no noise and the engine check light remains on.
Turn the key to position 2 and the engine turns over but it doesn't fire up.
Turned the key to the off position and back to position 1 a few times but still no noise and the engine check light remained on.
Left it for no more than 10 minutes and it restarted fine and then restarted several times more with no problem.
The first time this occurred the car had been standing a couple of months so I wondered if a relay contact face had not closed properly but this time the car has been started regularly so there is obviously an underlying fault.

Wondering if one of the relays is on the way out?

Does anyone have any thoughts as it why this might be occurring?

I noted from some other posts that the ECU will record errors and these can be identified by the the flashing lights on the unit.
I'm wondering if a Twin Cam D16Z4 engine from 1991 has this function and also whether the ECU would have even recorded the fault this early in the start procedure.

[scoubix]

your main relay is at fault here. Common issue, the hum you mentioned is the fuel pump and the main relay activates the pump, so...
If you are handy with a solder iron, easy to cure yourself, just disconnect it from behind the centre console (it's located on a bracket behind the ashtray, you can get to it from the passenger side after removing the main piece of console trim), disconnect it, remove the bolt holding the bracket to the console, remove the plastic housing to expose the relay, and redo all of the tracks on the circuit board with your iron and new solder lead. Will fix your issue.
Picture shows the relay on my car from the side, you can see the bolt on the side, my car is LHD so it's on the right side, would be on the left on yours...

[RoverRevival]

as above, just needs the dry solder joints renewing.

easy job

https://www.facebook.com/plugins/post.p ... &width=500

[Plodder]

Thanks for the replies confirming my thoughts
but more importantly pointing me in the right direction of the faulty part.
Quick read of the manual done to see how to remove covers , although it tells you to remove the gear knob but not what to do with the auto selector level. Still shouldn’t present too much of a problem
Subsequently found this great topic by Johnny 216 gsi
http://www.rover200.org.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=9281
Thanks again for your help

[StubbornPatriot]

Depending upon your dexterity, it is possible to undo the single bolt holding the relay in without taking the covers off. I admit it's fiddly and you've got to be a bit of a contortionist, but it is possible - and to do it back up again.

And - I know it is folklore that this is the cause of this particular problem and I'm probably committing and act of heresy here, but I'm not convinced it's the only culprit. I currently drive around with 2 spare relays in the car, because I regularly can't start it after it's been standing a short while after being driven. On the occasions when it does throw a hissy fit, I have tried all 3 relays and it still won't start (yet it will start 1st thing on all these relays). The only solution is to roll a cigarette and wait 10 minutes while I smoke it (not in the car, of course) - it will then usually start. OK, so you probably don't need the cigarette bit, just the wait. I did find that the problem went away for a while after the coil failed and was replaced. I don't know if there is a definite link, or it is just coincidence. If you are still on your original coil, I would suggest you keep a new one spare in the car, just in case your's is on its way out. I've had two 25+ year old coils fail, so it seems that around 25 years is their lifespan. They only take 10 minutes to change and I think you can do the job with a Phillips screwdriver and an 8mm socket.

[crepello]

Presumably if it was a coil failure and not a relay failure, you would still hear the fuel pump pressurise the system at ignition position 1 ?

[RoverRevival]

Presumably if it was a coil failure and not a relay failure, you would still hear the fuel pump pressurise the system at ignition position 1 ?

Yep

[Plodder]

I’ve ordered some bits to rework the relay as my soldering supplies are a bit scarce.

The coil could be 20+ years old , the car died on me 21 years ago on the way to work and the garage replaced the distributor (£228 in 2000!) so its possible the coil may have been replaced as part of that .
I might just replace the coil as a matter of course so it doesn’t let me down somewhere unexpected.
Thanks again everyone for your support

[RoverRevival]

If you want to post your relay to me I’ll sort if for you for postage.

[Plodder]

post by RoverRevival » Wed Aug 18, 2021 3:11 pm

If you want to post your relay to me I’ll sort if for you for postage

Many thanks for your kind offer - much appreciated.
I should be ok if the solder joints aren’t too small as I’d like to have a go at repairing it myself first. Will pm you if I feel I'm making a mess of it or feel out of my depth.
Got an Mot due on September 3rd and a local car show here in Devon on the 19th September so I might leave it till after then as its not causing me any major problems at the moment unless I get a window in my busy social life to tackle it
Many thanks again