Rover 220 GTI

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harkins77
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Re: Rover 220 GTI

Post by harkins77 »

roverman1 wrote:I really feel for you Kain i really do, this is soul destroying. When you replaced the gasket did you do a modification to the oils feed on that corner of the head, I'm sure I've read somewhere that there is some modification that needs to be done on the M and T series to try and cure the oil leak.
I would very much doubt that the block would have a crack, the T series suffer the exact same problem even after a gasket swap.
That's the thing looking at the head there isn't anything to be modified that I could see. Your not the first person to say something about the oil restricting thing. I've studied both the before and after pics of both sides of the block and head and there is nothing that looks as if it needs modifying.

My reason behind there being a crack of some kind is that it takes about 3-4 mins for the block to warm up and then the oil starts pouring out of the same place as before. That to me means a crack as it opens up the warmer the engine gets and the crack opens up.
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220 GSi turbo
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Re: Rover 220 GTI

Post by 220 GSi turbo »

But the other thing that changes with heat is that the oil gets thinner and can find its way out more easily.

Is there a possibility that the oil pressure relief valve is stuck and excessive oil pressure is being created? Might be worth plumbing an oil pressure gauge in (where the oil pressure switch is fitted) and see what reading you get.
1995 220GSi Turbo: owned for 24 years
1994 216SLi
2000 25GTi

Daily: Honda Civic Type R GT

Previously: 216 Sprint (1988-91)216 Coupe(1993-95) 214SLi(1995-96) 420GSi Turbo L955UKV(1997-2004) 214SEi M884BMR(2004-11) 420GSi Tourer (2005-6) 214 SEi M103BCW(2011-12)
harkins77
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Re: Rover 220 GTI

Post by harkins77 »

go on give me a clue how to do that and is it easy and low cost? Reason being is I don't want to be spending money on something when I need it to replace the engine.
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220 GSi turbo
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Re: Rover 220 GTI

Post by 220 GSi turbo »

Just a simple 0-100psi mechanical oil pressure gauge, the sort of thing that will be lurking in the corner of the garage of anybody who is into Minis, MGBs etc.

Remove the oil pressure warning lamp sensor from your engine and screw the pipe from the oil gauge into the hole. Only assumption I am making here is that you can come up with a suitable adapter to suit the thread.

Start and run the engine. I don't know the exact pressure the engine should run at, but oldskool engines like the A-series and B-series were limited to 60psi by the relief valve, the V8 in the Rover SD1 typically ran at 40psi etc. If you get a reading towards 100, or even off the end of the gauge (my old MG 1300 did that when the valve stuck :scared ), you have far too much oil pressure and it will escape through any weak spot.

Pressure tends to be higher when the oil is cold, but as said before, when the oil warms up it thins out and will find its way out more easily.
1995 220GSi Turbo: owned for 24 years
1994 216SLi
2000 25GTi

Daily: Honda Civic Type R GT

Previously: 216 Sprint (1988-91)216 Coupe(1993-95) 214SLi(1995-96) 420GSi Turbo L955UKV(1997-2004) 214SEi M884BMR(2004-11) 420GSi Tourer (2005-6) 214 SEi M103BCW(2011-12)
harkins77
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Re: Rover 220 GTI

Post by harkins77 »

Ok bit of an update. I apologise about my ugly mush but i've made a quick video which is at this link to explain what I've done this morning.

http://i1021.photobucket.com/albums/af3 ... ac34f5.mp4
More to follow
harkins77
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Re: Rover 220 GTI

Post by harkins77 »

Ok this is going to be a bit of a 2 part update. Basically I shot the video earlier in the day and around 3.30 I went home for some food, rest and then I was back to it with Andy doing the timing.

Ok I'm back home for some food and a bit of rest before heading back for 5 to hopefully get it running perfectly before the day is out.

So I've been at it since dropping the kids off at school this morning at 8am.

I started obviously stripping the head down so it could be lifted easily enough and I was going to refrain from removing the head until Andy got there just after 12.

It got to about 11.30 this morning and I was at the point where I'd loosened off the head bolts so the head could be lifted off. That was until I went to try and remove the belt and the head moved. I made an executive decision and removed the head placing it on the unit.

I then set about drying out the piston area which was now filled with coolant from what didn't come out when I removed the radiator hose.

Now one thing I didn't do when removing the head and all it's associated bits was lock the timing out but speaking to Andy earlier in the day he told me not to worry about it as he would sort it later.

However I did make a bit of a c0ck up of removing the bottom cam cover that hides the pulleys and the bottom part of the timing belt. Needless to say I may have damaged it beyond repair so I'll be looking for something to replace it but in the mean time I'm going to try and replace the damaged part.

Andy arrived and after inspecting the block and then the mlg that we fitted yesterday and it was in such a state because of the amount of oil/water on it it was past saving. I did however have the single layered gasket that came in the headset kit and as Andy said it is only a single layer but it has more of a rubber feel to it and from what we experienced compared to the mlg the single one looked like it might be a better seal.

We've made sure of a better fit by also putting a layer of gasket sealant on as well to make sure. Also there was a oil restrictor which we didn't see the first time and so with it being a single layer gasket we have replaced it back in the block and we started refitting everything back togther.

Andy and his other half left just after the installation of the inlet manifold leaving me to complete nearly everything else apart from the top cambelt cover and also the drivers side engine mount.

I am now fed and watered whilst typing this and I'm on my way back.

Any of you that have earthquake measuring equiptment please keep an eye on it anytime between 5pm and 6.30 as the screams might set them off if this doesn't work.

More to follow.
harkins77
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Re: Rover 220 GTI

Post by harkins77 »

Part 2.

:mexicanwave: :mexicanwave: :mexicanwave: :mexicanwave:

I am now the proud owner of a Rover 220 GTI with no leaks from the head and legal back on the road tax wise at least.

Me and Andy finished it just before 7pm tonight and took it out for a run.

There are 3 little issues 1 being an indicator light out on the left hand side and the running is a little lumpy which I believe maybe caused by 2 vacuum pipes one leading to the top cam cover and the other going from the ecu to the throttle body and the 3rd being that I need to fit the rear number plate. Apart from that she is responsive good round corners and assuming I can get permission will be at POL.

I'm chuffed to bits that the biggest job is now out of the way and one I'd been putting off since getting the car but now it's done I'm over the moon.

This is how she sat yesterday at my parents before I started on stripping it down today.

Image
214cab
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Re: Rover 220 GTI

Post by 214cab »

Nice one! Glad you got it sorted!
E_T_V
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Re: Rover 220 GTI

Post by E_T_V »

Excellent, I'm glad you kept the faith!
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Nudge
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Re: Rover 220 GTI

Post by Nudge »

Well done, im pleased youve sorted it.
`92, 214 Cabriolet, (2009 MG Saloon Day Winner 'Best Modified Rover')
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